The whole fish in a salt crystal coat – Provençal festivity
Cooking loup de mer – sea bass – in salt dough is one of the oldest and most elegant techniques in Mediterranean fish cuisine. The fish is completely wrapped in a thick coating of sea salt and egg white and baked in the oven: The salt seals everything in, and the fish cooks in its own steam, moist, tender and with a purity of flavor that few other techniques can match. The sauce Vierge – a Provençal raw sauce made from tomatoes, olives, capers, herbs and the highest quality olive oil – is a warm contrast: fresh, aromatic, acidic. Wine with food shows which wine to pair with this festive combination of salty elegance and herb-spicy raw sauce. The dish calls for a wine with real backbone: enough minerality to keep up with the saltiness, enough freshness to mirror the Vierge sauce in its herbal spiciness, and enough body to be on a par with the noble sea bass meat. The combination of wine and food here succeeds at a festive level.
Ideal wine accompaniment: Cassis AOC (Provence, France)
A few kilometers east of Marseille lies Cassis – a small wine-growing region with one of the most dramatic coastal landscapes in France, nestled between limestone cliffs, the Calanques National Park and the Mediterranean Sea. The limestone and clay soils shape the white wines of this appellation – predominantly from Marsanne, Clairette and Ugni Blanc – into a style with a remarkable character of its own: rich yet taut, floral and aromatic yet infused with a dry, almost stony minerality that is immediately reminiscent of the white rocks of the Calanques. On the palate, aromas of white peach, apricot, jasmine, acacia blossom and a characteristic hint of aniseed and fennel unfold – the latter an aromatic echo of the Provençal garrigue, which forms an almost natural link to the Sauce Vierge. The acidity is round and full-bodied, the texture creamy – both elegantly carry the tender, moist meat of the salt-cooked loup de mer. The subtle saltiness in the finish of the Cassis AOC corresponds with the salt coating of the cooking process and extends the seaside feeling of the dish far beyond the last bite. A wine that tells of the same Mediterranean from which the fish originates – and which could not have found a better home for this very reason.
Further wine recommendations for this dish
Meursault AOC (Côte de Beaune, Burgundy, France)
The heavy limestone and clay marl soils of the Côte de Beaune lend the Chardonnay from Meursault a creamy texture and a combination of ripe fruit and mineral depth that has no equal in Europe when it comes to fish dishes. Aromas of buttered pear, hazelnut, brioche, white peach and a hint of citrus zest and fine oak build up an opulent but never heavy aromatic picture. The creaminess of the Meursault AOC meets the salt-cooked sea bass on an almost structural level: both have this softness, this juiciness. The wine’s mineral depth picks up on the saltiness of the cooking process and elegantly prolongs it. A Burgundy classic for a Provençal feast.
Vermentino di Gallura DOCG (Sardinia, Italy)
The granite and slate soils of Gallura give Vermentino a salty minerality and an aromatic herbal spiciness that are particularly well suited to whole-cooked seafood. Aromas of white peach, citrus mandarin, rosemary and a characteristic sea salt mineral are combined with a lively, invigorating acidity. The saltiness of this wine enters into a natural dialog with the saltiness of the Loup de Mer – sea salt meets sea salt – and gives the pairing an almost logical coherence. The herbal spiciness of the Vermentino di Gallura DOCG also mirrors the herbs of the Sauce Vierge and enhances its fresh, aromatic character. A Sardinian white wine for a Provençal classic – the Mediterranean connection is closer than the geographical distance.
Grüner Veltliner Smaragd Wachau DAC (Wachau, Austria)
The Wachau’s Smaragd is the fullest, deepest expression of Grüner Veltliner – a white wine with real substance that is a match made in heaven for festive fish dishes with a sophisticated sauce. Aromas of peach, white pepper, honeydew melon, herbs and a characteristic mineral depth build up a multi-layered aromatic picture. The texture is full-bodied, almost creamy – exactly what you need for the soft, juicy sea bass from the salt coating. The typical Veltliner pepper enters into an elegant dialogue with the herbs of the sauce vierge and gives the pairing an Austrian spiciness that harmonizes surprisingly well with the Provençal character of the dish.
Roussanne, Hermitage Blanc AOC (Northern Rhône, France)
The granite slopes of Hermitage in the northern Rhône produce a white wine from the Roussanne grape variety with a creamy texture, beeswax opulence and a floral depth that can accompany festive fish dishes at a festive level. Notes of white peach, apricot jam, acacia blossom, beeswax and herbal tea combine to create a white wine of great complexity and longevity. The texture – rich and almost waxy – clings to the delicate flesh of the loup de mer in a sensual way. The floral notes take up the herbs of the Sauce Vierge and extend them into the aromatic. A Hermitage Blanc AOC is the most dignified, generous response to this festive dish.
Gavi DOCG (Piedmont, Italy)
The soils around Gavi – limestone, marl and sand – shape the Cortese into a white wine of clear, crystalline freshness, subtle fruit and an invigorating almond-bitter note on the finish. Aromas of green apple, lemon, white flowers and a hint of almond build a lean, focused aromatic picture that emphasizes the purity of the salt-cooked fish without masking it. The acidity is lively and precise, the texture light – making the Gavi DOCG the most elegant, understated companion on this list. For those who want to focus entirely on the fish and experience the wine as a quiet accompaniment, Gavi is the right choice.
Discover more summer wine and food pairings in our summer and wine category.
The recipe:
Loup de Mer in salt dough with sauce Vierge
Cooking utensils
- 1 Large baking tray or roasting tin
- 1 Large bowl for the salt dough
- 1 Sharp fish knife and cutting board
- 1 Small pan (for the sauce Vierge)
- 1 Thermometer (optional, core temperature 58 °C)
- 1 Hammer or heavy knife to break open the salt coating
Ingredients
FOR THE LOUP DE MER IN SALT DOUGH:
- 1 Whole sea bass approx. 800 g-1 kg, gutted, scales left on
- 1 kg coarse sea salt
- 2 Protein
- 2 EL Water
- Fresh thyme Rosemary and 1 bay leaf (for the abdominal cavity)
- 1 Lemon cut into slices (for the abdominal cavity)
FOR THE SAUCE VIERGE:
- 3 Fully ripe tomatoes cored and finely diced
- 12 Kalamata olives cored and coarsely chopped
- 2 Tbsp capers pickled in salt, rinsed
- 1 Shallot finely diced
- 1 Garlic clove finely grated
- 6 Tbsp extra virgin olive oil best available
- Juice of ½ lemon
- 1 tablespoon fresh tarragon finely chopped
- 1 Tbsp fresh basil finely plucked
- 1 tablespoon fresh parsley finely chopped
- Salt and white pepper
Preparation
PREPARATION:
- Preheat the oven to 220 °C top/bottom heat.
- Mix the coarse sea salt, egg white and water in a large bowl to form a malleable mass – it should feel like damp sand.
- Stuff the inside of the sea bass belly with thyme, rosemary, bay leaf and lemon slices.
- Spread a layer of salt about 1 cm thick on the baking tray, slightly larger than the fish.
COOKING STEPS:
- Place the sea bass on the salt layer.
- Sprinkle the remaining salt over the fish and shape into an even, seamless coating with your hands.
- Bake in a hot oven for 25-30 minutes until the salt coating is firm and lightly browned.
- To make the sauce Vierge, heat all the ingredients in a small pan over a very low heat (do not boil!) until the olive oil is fragrant.
- Season to taste with lemon juice, salt and white pepper.
- Sauce Vierge is a raw sauce – it should not boil, only become lukewarm.
DIRECTIONS:
- Smashing salt coats at the table with a hammer or the back of a heavy knife – that’s part of the experience.
- Remove the salt, peel off the skin and remove the fillets cleanly from the bone.
- Arrange the fillets on warmed plates.
- Drizzle generously with sauce Vierge and serve alongside.
- Garnish with a sprig of fresh tarragon or basil.
SUPPLEMENTS:
- Steamed jacket potatoes with sea salt butter
- Toasted baguette
- Steamed fennel with orange zest
