A rare specialty from Garonne fishermen in the spirit of regional tradition
If you’re looking for the perfect wine to accompany one of southwest France’s most exclusive seasonal delicacies, shad is second to none. The wine and food theme here is defined by a short window of time in spring, when the Alosen migrate up the rivers and are traditionally grilled over glowing vine wood. This fish is characterized by a very fatty, intensely flavoured meat, which is given an incomparable depth by the smoky aroma of the vines. The preparation à la Bordelaise emphasizes the rustic elegance of the region, whereby the challenge is to find an accompaniment that harmonizes with both the fatty structure of the fish and the distinctive smoky notes. It is a connoisseur’s culinary experience that perfectly embodies the connection between the river landscape and the vineyard, bridging the gap between the freshness of the water and the aromatic complexity of white Bordeaux cuvées, with the fine texture of the fish taking center stage and calling for a structured response in the glass.
Ideal wine accompaniment: Graves AOC (Bordeaux, France)
A white Graves AOC is the ideal answer to Aloses à la Bordelaise (shad, usually grilled over vine wood). These wines from the south of Bordeaux traditionally consist of a cuvée of Sauvignon Blanc and Sémillon, with the Sémillon component giving the wine the necessary smoothness that perfectly absorbs the richness of the shad. On the nose, the wine often shows notes of citrus fruits, beeswax and a fine minerality that corresponds wonderfully with the smoky aroma of the vine wood. As allis shad is very fatty, the structure and gentle creaminess of a Graves is needed to create a harmonious balance on the palate without the fish dominating the wine. The fine acidity of the Sauvignon Blanc also provides the necessary freshness to invigorate the palate after every bite. It is a regional pairing par excellence, in which the texture of the wine and the intensity of the grilled food merge into a majestic whole. The lingering finish ensures that the smoky nuances and noble fruit of Graves caress the palate in a complex and profound finale.
Further wine recommendations for this dish
Pessac-Léognan AOC (Bordeaux, France)
A Pessac-Léognan AOC offers an even more structured and often wood-influenced accompaniment to grilled shad. These wines grow on gravelly soils, which give them a distinctive smoky minerality that picks up and enhances the aromas of grilling over vine wood. Ageing in barriques allows the wine to develop an aromatic density of vanilla and roasted nuts, which perfectly complements the high fat content of the Alose. The combination of ripe fruit and lively acidity makes this wine an aristocratic partner that meets fish at eye level. It is a choice for purists who appreciate the interplay between fine roasted aromas and a powerful white structure, with the creaminess of the Sémillon caressing the palate and ensuring an extremely long, elegant finish that enhances the savory characteristics of the fish.
Meursault AOC (Burgundy, France)
This famous Chardonnay from Burgundy is a fascinating alternative that impresses with its buttery texture and nutty aroma. A Meursault often has an enormous amount of extract, which wonderfully supports the intense taste of the shad. The fine roasted notes of the wine harmonize beautifully with the skin of the alos grilled over an open fire. As the wine has a chalky minerality and perfectly integrated acidity, the pairing always remains precise and clear despite the richness of both components. It is a luxurious combination that shows how well the opulence of a great white Burgundy can correspond with the rustic power of a fatty river fish, with the complex flavors of yellow fruit and brioche adding an extra dimension of nobility to the dish and enhancing every mouthful.
Rheinhessen Pinot Blanc QbA (Rheinhessen, Germany)
A high-quality Pinot Blanc from Rheinhessen, matured in large wooden barrels, offers an elegant German answer to the Bordeaux specialty. The wine is characterized by a fine nutty spiciness and aromas of yellow apple and pear, which harmonizes perfectly with the texture of the allis shad. As Pinot Blanc usually has a moderate and soft acidity, it flatters the fat content of the fish without being aggressive. The subtle wood spice in the wine subtly picks up on the smoky aromas of the grape wood without overpowering them. It is a very harmonious wine accompaniment that focuses on balance and finesse and contrasts the strong fish with a delicate, almost silky component that ensures a very pleasant and round mouthfeel and brings the naturalness of the product to the fore.
Chardonnay Napa Valley AVA (California, USA)
A powerful Chardonnay from the Napa Valley has the necessary extract and warmth to stand up to the intensity of a fish grilled over vine wood. These wines are often characterized by ripe tropical fruit, butterscotch and a present toasty note from the oak. These strong aromas are an excellent match for the intense roasted aromas and the distinctive taste of the Alose. The viscous texture of the Californian wine covers the fatty flesh of the fish like a protective film and creates a feeling of opulence on the palate. Despite its power, a good Napa Chardonnay has enough structure to keep the pairing dynamic. It is a modern and bold choice that focuses on maximum enjoyment and shows how top international wines can enrich traditional French river cuisine with their fruity power and aromatic density.
Wachau Grüner Veltliner DAC (Lower Austria, Austria)
A Grüner Veltliner from the Wachau, especially in the Smaragd category, offers a powerful and spicy accompaniment. The wine captivates with its typical pepperiness and notes of tobacco and ripe yellow fruit, creating an exciting contrast to the smoky notes of the fish. The enormous concentration and mineral depth of the primary rock soils give the wine a stable backbone that stands up to the fatty flesh of the alose. The lively acidity of the Veltliner provides freshness and drinkability, while the full body of the wine provides the necessary substance. It is an original and very rewarding combination that impresses with its aromatic versatility, parrying the hearty grilled notes of the shad with an herbaceous and spicy freshness that makes for a long-lasting and complex taste experience.
The recipe:
Aloses à la Bordelaise (grilled allis shad Bordelaise style)
Cooking utensils
- 1 Charcoal grill (ideally with vine wood additive)
- 1 Fish grill (grill grid)
- 1 Sharp knife
- 1 Brush for coating
Ingredients
- 1 fresh allis shad approx. 800 g to 1 kg
- 200 g Dried vines Sarmientos
- 50 ml Olive oil
- 2 Shallots
- 100 ml dry white wine Graves
- 1 Lemon
- 1 bunch of flat-leaf parsley
- Sea salt
- Black pepper from the grinder
Preparation
PREPARATION:
- Scale and gut the shad.
- Wash thoroughly under cold water and pat dry.
- Make several diagonal cuts into the skin of the fish on both sides.
- The incisions help to distribute the heat better and tenderize the small bones.
- Finely dice the shallots.
- Finely chop the parsley.
- Prepare the barbecue and mix the vines under the coals or light them on top.
COOKING STEPS:
- Season the fish well inside and out with salt and pepper.
- Brush with olive oil.
- Place the fish in a fish roaster.
- Grill over moderately hot vinewood embers for approx. 8 to 10 minutes per side.
- The skin should be crispy and the smoke flavor should be deeply absorbed.
- In the meantime, fry the shallots in a little oil until translucent.
- Deglaze with white wine and reduce by half.
- Stir the parsley into the wine reduction just before serving.
DIRECTIONS:
- Carefully remove the grilled fish from the grid.
- Serve on a preheated platter.
- Pour the wine and shallot reduction over the fish.
- Garnish with lemon wedges.
- Serve immediately while the skin is still crispy.
- Traditionally, the fish is filleted directly at the table.
SUPPLEMENTS:
- Steamed new potatoes
- Grilled green asparagus
- A light herb salad
