A Piedmontese classic: the powerful alliance of wine and food
Ossobuco alla Milanese, the braised veal shank, is a masterpiece of northern Italian cuisine and a prime example of a rich dish that requires an equally powerful wine to accompany it. The veal shank is braised for hours in an aromatic broth of white wine, vegetables, tomatoes and stock, which tenderizes the meat and creates a deep, concentrated sauce. The marrow bone in the middle of the knuckle, the eponymous “bone with a hole”, gives the sauce an incomparable viscosity and smoothness. The dish is classically accompanied by a creamy lemon risotto, whose light acidity and creaminess form a perfect counterpoint to the heaviness of the meat. Only a great red wine with structure, acidity and complex aromas can harmonize with the intensity of this dish without going under.
Ideal wine accompaniment: Barolo DOCG (Piedmont, Italy)
Barolo DOCG from Piedmont is the iconic, traditionally perfect wine accompaniment for braised veal shank (ossobuco) and represents the pinnacle of Italian winemaking. Made from the Nebbiolo grape, Barolo is characterized by its high acidity, strong, well-structured tannins and a complex aroma spectrum reminiscent of tar, roses, cherries and earthy truffle notes. The enormous acidity of Barolo is crucial in balancing the richness and fat content of the veal shank and marrow bone. The powerful tannins are not inferior to the deep, concentrated braising sauce and the earthy aromas correspond wonderfully with the braised vegetables. The elegance and depth of this wine round off the festive dish perfectly.
Further wine recommendations for this dish
Brunello di Montalcino DOCG (Tuscany, Italy)
A Brunello di Montalcino, made from $100\,\%$ Sangiovese, is a Tuscan alternative to Barolo that also offers great structure and complexity. It has a taut acidity, strong but fine-grained tannins and aromas of sour cherry, plum, leather and tobacco. Brunello’s striking acidity is ideal for cutting through the heaviness of the veal shank, while its dark fruit and savory notes complement the braised flavors of the sauce. The wine’s elegant tannins can interact well with the protein-rich veal and the viscosity of the marrow. It is a classic, powerful accompaniment that offers a different facet of flavor.
Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve Napa Valley AVA (California, USA)
A mature, barrel-aged Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve from the Napa Valley provides a modern, opulent accompaniment. It is characterized by rich concentration, full body, soft but present tannins and intense aromas of blackcurrant, chocolate, vanilla and mocha. The dense fruitiness and sweet spiciness of the wood ageing harmonize well with the umami-rich braised flavours of the sauce. The full body of the wine is in no way inferior to the veal shank. Although it has softer tannins than Barolo, it has enough structure to balance the fat and is a good choice for lovers of “New World” wines.
Syrah Crozes-Hermitage AOC (Northern Rhône, France)
A Syrah from the Northern Rhône, especially a Crozes-Hermitage, offers a spicy and peppery accompaniment. On the palate, it has aromas of dark berries, black pepper, olive and a slightly smoky undertone. The present acidity and firm tannins of the Syrah go well with the texture of the meat. The wine’s characteristic peppery notes complement the savory spices of the braising sauce, while its dark fruitiness adds a beautiful depth. Syrah is an elegant and spicy alternative that enhances the complexity of the dish with its herbaceous notes.
Tempranillo Gran Reserva Rioja DOCa (Rioja, Spain)
A Tempranillo Gran Reserva from Rioja that has matured for a long time in barrel and in the bottle offers a supple, spicy and earthy accompaniment. Sensory characteristics include soft, supple tannins, moderate acidity and complex aromas of leather, tobacco, cherry and vanilla. The tertiary, matured notes of the Gran Reserva harmonize wonderfully with the deep braised flavours of the veal shank. The soft tannins are elegant enough to caress the tender meat. It is a classic, warm and aromatically complex choice that goes well with hearty dishes.
Saint-Émilion AOP (Bordeaux, France)
A ripe red wine from Saint-Émilion (Merlot-based) from the right side of the Gironde offers a softer, yet structured elegance. On the palate, this wine offers aromas of plum, cedar, truffle and a subtle earthiness. The softer tannins of the Merlot-dominated Saint-Émilion harmonize very well with the tender veal. The earthy, nutty notes and maturity of the wine are a wonderful counterpart to the viscosity of the marrow bone and the aromas of the braising sauce. It is a classy and smooth choice that complements the dish with French elegance.
The recipe:
Braised veal shank with lemon risotto (Ossobuco alla Milanese)
Cooking utensils
- 1 Knife and chopping board
- 1 Cooking spoon
Ingredients
For the ossobuco
- 2 Veal shank slices approx. 300-400 g per piece, approx. 3 cm thick
- 2 1 tbsp olive oil
- 1 Tbsp butter
- 1 Onion finely diced
- 1 Carrot finely diced
- 1 Celery stalk finely diced
- 200 ml dry white wine
- 400 ml Veal stock
- 1 Bay leaf
- Salt and pepper
For the lemon risotto
- 150 g Risotto rice Arborio or Carnaroli
- 1 1 tbsp olive oil
- 50 g Butter
- 1 Shallot finely diced
- 400 ml hot vegetable stock
- 50 ml White wine
- Zest and juice of 1/2 lemon
- 30 g grated parmesan
For the gremolata
- 1 tablespoon chopped parsley
- 1 Garlic clove finely chopped
- Zest of 1/2 organic lemon
Preparation
Preparation of the ossobuco
- Score the sides of the meat slices so that they do not curl during braising. Season with salt and pepper. Fry well in olive oil and butter until golden brown. Remove from the pan.
- Sauté the onion, carrot and celery in the roasting tin. Deglaze with white wine and reduce a little.
- Add the stock and bay leaf. Return the meat to the pot. Cover and simmer at 160°C fan or over a low heat for 2 to 2.5 hours until the meat is very tender.
Preparation of the lemon risotto
- Heat the olive oil and 20 g butter in a pan. Sauté the shallots until translucent. Add the rice and sauté for 1 minute.
- Deglaze with white wine and reduce.
- Gradually add the hot stock, stirring constantly. The rice will be al dente after approx. 18-20 minutes.
- Stir in the remaining butter, Parmesan, lemon zest and juice.
Preparation of the gremolata
- Mix the parsley, garlic and lemon zest.
Dressing and serving
- Arrange the risotto on a plate. Place the braised veal shank on top and drizzle with the rich braising sauce.
- Sprinkle the gremolata over the meat and risotto.
Recommended side dishes
- Steamed green beans
- A dollop of mascarpone (for the risotto)
- Fresh truffle (optional)
