Venetian delicacy made from the finest stockfish
The perfect wine to accompany the meal turns the baccalà mantecato into an experience that transports the senses directly to a Venetian bacaro bar. This specialty is based on stockfish, which is emulsified into an incredibly creamy mousse by beating it with olive oil for a long time. Unlike many fish spreads, no cream or mayonnaise is used here, instead the pure binding of the fish protein with the oil is used. The result is an airy, almost cloud-like texture with an intense yet elegant aroma of the sea. Traditionally, this spread is served on toasted polenta slices or crusty white bread and is one of the most sophisticated preparations in northern Italian cuisine. The art lies in the patience of emulsifying to achieve the perfect consistency that is neither too firm nor too liquid, but melts delicately on the palate and leaves a lingering taste that calls for a refreshing accompaniment. It is a dish that combines simplicity and sophistication at the highest level.
Ideal wine accompaniment: Soave Classico DOC (Veneto, Italy)
The choice of a Soave Classico DOC as a wine to accompany food is almost obligatory here, as the Garganega grape has a natural affinity with the creamy texture of Baccalà. This wine is characterized by its fine acidity and a characteristic almond note on the finish, which harmonizes perfectly with the nutty aroma of high-quality olive oil. The volcanic soils of the Classico zone lend the wine a subtle minerality that picks up on the saltiness of the stockfish without overpowering it. Its floral nose with hints of elderberry and camomile provides an elegant contrast to the maritime spice of the dish. In addition, a good Soave has enough structure and body to stand up to the richness of the emulsion, while its fresh finish cleanses the palate perfectly after every bite. This regional combination is a prime example of the harmony of terroir and local culinary art, resulting in a rounded and coherent overall picture. The wine supports the mousse without dominating its flavor.
Further wine recommendations for this dish
Chablis AOC (Burgundy, France)
A classic Chablis is an excellent partner for this full-bodied spread thanks to its firm structure and striking acidity. The Chardonnay grape, which is typical of Burgundy, produces an almost salty minerality on the chalky soils, which plays wonderfully with the maritime character of the Baccalà. As the wine is mostly matured without the influence of wood, the fruit remains clear and precise, which does not weigh down the creamy mousse but gives it an unexpected lightness. Aromas of citrus fruit and green apple provide a refreshing liveliness on the palate. This combination is particularly suitable for lovers of purist wines who appreciate a clear distinction between the richness of the food and the freshness of the wine. The wine acts as a vertical anchor here, elegantly structuring and enhancing the creamy texture of the stockfish, while at the same time sensitizing the taste buds for the next bite.
Verdejo DO Rueda (Castile and León, Spain)
A Verdejo from the Spanish region of Rueda impresses with its intense aroma and a fine bitter note on the finish, which goes perfectly with the olive oil used in the dish. The aromas of fresh herbs, fennel and tropical fruit create an exciting bouquet that underlines the spicy notes of the stockfish. Its crisp acidity is strong enough to break up the fatty structure of the emulsion and provide a balanced mouthfeel. In particular, the combination of the herbal spiciness of the wine and the creamy texture of the baccalà makes for a dynamic taste experience. This wine brings a certain Mediterranean joie de vivre that lightens up the rustic dish and gives it a modern, lively component. The harmony between the fruity intensity of the Verdejo and the sea flavors is simply impressive and invites you to take another bite, while the bitter almond note of the wine goes perfectly with the fish.
Grüner Veltliner Weinviertel DAC (Lower Austria, Austria)
Grüner Veltliner is known for its famous Pfefferl, a subtle spice that adds an extra dimension to the creamy texture of baccalà mantecato. This wine from the Weinviertel offers a juicy fruit of yellow apple and white pepper that blends seamlessly with the savory components of the stockfish. Its lively acidity structure is invigorating and perfectly balances the richness of the spread without dominating the delicate fish flavors. Thanks to its good extract feet, it can keep up with the density of the mousse and provides a stable foundation for the entire flavor spectrum. This Austrian specialty shows its full versatility as a food companion and proves that a spicy freshness is often the best counterpoint to creamy fish dishes. The result is a very round and satisfying mouthfeel that is carried by the effervescence of the Veltliner and skillfully highlights the mineral nuances of the fish.
Chenin Blanc WO Stellenbosch (Coastal Region, South Africa)
A Chenin Blanc from South Africa, especially from the Stellenbosch region, often has a wonderful honey note and a creamy texture that mirrors the mouthfeel of baccalà mantecato. These wines often have a fine balance between ripe fruit such as quince and pineapple and a supporting acidity. If the wine has undergone subtle ageing in wooden barrels, the fine toasted notes complement the aroma of toasted bread or polenta perfectly. The complexity of the Chenin Blanc is a match for the intense aromas of the stockfish and offers a full-bodied accompaniment to round off the evening’s culinary delights. This choice is ideal for connoisseurs who prefer a more mellow and mature wine pairing that harmoniously complements the food rather than just contrasting it with acidity. It is an opulent pairing that is never heavy and supports the subtle nuances of the olive oil.
Assyrtiko Santorini PDO (Aegean, Greece)
The Assyrtiko from the volcanic island of Santorini is one of the most characterful white wines in the world and goes perfectly with salty stockfish thanks to its extreme minerality and high acidity. Its almost salty structure on the palate directly reflects the origin of the Baccalà and enhances the maritime experience. With notes of citrus zest, flint and an irrepressible energy, this wine is a powerful partner that stands up to even the most fatty emulsion. The wine’s volcanic character offers a fascinating contrast to the creaminess of the food and provides a lingering, fresh finish. This combination is bold and intense, but rewards with an extraordinary depth of flavor reminiscent of the wild shores of the Mediterranean. If you are looking for a wine that not only accompanies the food, but also challenges it and grows with it, Assyrtiko is the ideal match for this traditional dish.
The recipe:
Baccalà mantecato (creamy stockfish spread)
Cooking utensils
- 1 Large pot
- 1 Stand mixer or powerful hand mixer
- 1 Skimmer
- 1 Cutting board
- 1 Fine sieve
Ingredients
For the fish
- 300 g Stockfish already soaked for 48 hours
- 250 ml Milk
- 250 ml Water
- 1 Bay leaf
- 1 Garlic clove
For the emulsion
- 150 ml mild extra virgin olive oil
- Salt and white pepper
- 1 tablespoon fresh parsley finely chopped
- A dash of lemon juice
Preparation
Cooking fish
- Cut the soaked stockfish into pieces and place in a pan. Cover with milk and water so that the fish is completely submerged.
- Add the bay leaf and the crushed garlic clove.
- Bring to the boil and then simmer gently over a low heat for about 20 to 30 minutes until the fish is soft and falling apart.
- Remove the fish with a slotted spoon, leave to cool briefly and carefully remove the skin and bones. Keep some of the cooking liquid.
Emulsifying (Mantecare)
- Place the cleaned, still warm fish in a bowl or blender.
- Start chopping the fish at medium speed.
- Now slowly pour in the olive oil in a very thin stream (like a mayonnaise) while continuing to whisk.
- If the mixture becomes too firm, add a spoonful of the cooking liquid until you have a creamy, airy mousse.
Season to taste
- Season to taste with salt, white pepper and a squeeze of lemon juice.
- Finally, fold in the finely chopped parsley.
- Ideally, serve the spread lukewarm or at room temperature.
Recommended side dishes
- Golden yellow grilled polenta slices
- Crispy toasted baguette or ciabatta
- Pickled caper apples
