Nordic elegance on a plate: a starter with the character of an aperitif
Combining wine and food is particularly impressive when a dish itself is already characterized by a clear aromatic language. This pickled fjord trout is just such an appetizer: precise, cool, aromatically complex. The pickling with gin, salt, sugar and dill gives the fish a delicate spiciness and a light botanical note, the tonic jelly pearls add bitterness and freshness, the wafer-thin cucumber slices bring crispness and coolness. The result is a starter with an aperitif character that calls for a wine that is just as precise and fresh. Anyone who likes to play with textures and contrasts will find a recipe here for a stylish Easter starter – and the right wine to go with it.
Ideal wine accompaniment: Sauvignon Blanc Südsteiermark DAC (Südsteiermark, Austria)
Grassy freshness, white currant, elderflower and a distinctive mineral spiciness – this is the profile of a classic Styrian Sauvignon Blanc from the hills of southern Styria. On the windswept heights above the Sausal or the Gamlitzer Hügelland, grapes ripen here that become some of the most distinctive white wines in Austria. The acidity is present, but never shrill – it has precision and length. On the palate, the wine combines with the trout pickle: the botanical notes of the gin are echoed in the green plant tones of the Sauvignon Blanc, the tonic bitterness in the jelly is mirrored and cushioned by the fresh acidity of the wine. The cucumber slices, cool and crisp, prolong the freshness effect in the glass. A combination that stimulates and calms at the same time – the opposite of intrusive.
Further wine recommendations for this dish
Sauvignon Blanc DO Rueda (Castile-León, Spain)
Bright, light yellow and with a lively acidity: Sauvignon Blanc thrives on the Castilian high plateau of Rueda at an altitude of over 700 meters and develops an aroma reminiscent of gooseberry, fresh herbs and a hint of white pepper. The large temperature differences between day and night on the high plateau ensure particularly pronounced fruity aromas and freshness at the same time. This wine offers a pleasantly international alternative to gin and salmon or trout: it is more accessible than the Styrian Sauvignon Blanc, but retains the decisive impulse of freshness that integrates the tonic jelly in its bitterness.
Muscadet Sèvre et Maine sur Lie AOC (Loire, France)
Still, cool and with a neutrality that has depth: Muscadet from the Loire estuary is the most classic accompaniment to fish in French cuisine – and no coincidence. The Melon de Bourgogne grape brings little aroma of its own, but a characteristic acidity and a delicate, creamy texture thanks to the yeast maturation (sur lie). It is ideal with tonic jelly: the wine’s low intrinsic sweetness allows the bitterness of the jelly to play freely without overpowering it. The cucumber fish in the recipe are underlined by the almost salty minerality of the Muscadet – a phenomenon that is best experienced at the table.
Grüner Veltliner Wachau DAC Federspiel (Wachau, Austria)
Peppery, herbal, with a fine mellowness – the Federspiel from the Wachau is the more elegant, lighter level of Grüner Veltliner and goes perfectly with delicate fish dishes. The white pepper in the finish, the trademark of the Veltliner, harmonizes with the botanical gin notes of the mordant in a surprising way: Spice meets spice without one overpowering the other. The moderate residual acidity and the fine, creamy body protect the delicate trout fillet, while the tonic jelly is integrated into the harmony through the wine’s minerality.
Vermentino di Sardegna DOC (Sardinia, Italy)
Fragrant with citrus grass, white fruits and a hint of salty sea breeze: Sardinian Vermentino has a southern temperament that works surprisingly well in this recipe. The natural bitterness of the Vermentino grape – you can taste it in the finish as a light almond amber note – enters into a dialog with the tonic jelly: two bitternesses that complement rather than fight each other. The cucumber element of the dish is given a Mediterranean component by the salty minerality of the wine. If you want to combine a cool Nordic starter with a touch of southern warmth, this is the right choice.
Albariño DO Rías Baixas (Galicia, Spain)
Bright straw yellow with green reflections and a bouquet that immediately smells of sea breeze, peach blossom and fresh lime: Albariño from the Atlantic-influenced Rías Baixas in Galicia is Spain’s most famous white wine for fish and seafood. The cool Atlantic location, the constant wind and the granite sandstone create a wine with a unique freshness and salinity. There is a geographical relationship in the glass with fjord trout – an equally North Atlantic product: both come from the sea, both thrive on freshness and salt. The tonic jelly is embedded in the natural bitterness of the Albariño, while the cucumber slices find a congenial partner in its minerality.
You can find more wine ideas for Nordic fish dishes and Easter in the Easter and wine category.
The recipe:
Marinated fjord trout with gin, tonic jelly and cucumber
Cooking utensils
- 1 Flat baking dish or bowl for pickling
- 1 Cling film
- 1 Small cooking pot for the jelly
- 1 Flat dish or baking tray for the jelly
- 1 Sharp knife (filleting knife)
- 1 Slicing knife or vegetable slicer (for cucumber)
- 1 Tweezers (for removing bones)
- 1 Pastry squeeze bottle or small spoon (for jelly portioning)
- 1 Serving platter or deep white plates
Ingredients
BEIZE:
- 400 g Fjord trout fillet with skin, bones removed
- 60 ml Gin z. e.g. London Dry or a botanical gin
- 3 Tbsp coarse sea salt
- 2 Tbsp sugar
- 1 bunch of fresh dill roughly chopped
- 1 teaspoon black pepper coarsely ground
- Zest of 1 organic lemon
TONIC-GELEE:
- 200 ml Tonic water
- 3 Sheet gelatin or 1.5 tsp agar agar for vegetarian
- 1 1 tsp lemon juice
- 1 Pinch of salt
GARNITURE:
- ½ Cucumber very thinly sliced or sliced
- Fresh dill
- A little lemon zest
- Fleur de sel to taste
- Some high-quality olive oil or dill oil
Preparation
PREPARATION (PICKLING):
- Rinse the trout fillet under cold water and pat dry.
- Remove the bones completely with tweezers – feel every centimeter of the fillet.
- Mix the coarse sea salt, sugar, pepper and lemon zest in a bowl.
- Roughly chop the dill.
- Pour the gin into a shallow baking dish.
- Briefly place the fillet in the gin, flesh side down, then turn.
- Apply the pickling mixture generously to both sides of the fillet.
- Spread the dill over the fillet and pour the rest of the dressing over it.
- Cover tightly with cling film.
- Pickle in the refrigerator for 12-24 hours (the longer, the more intense).
TONIC-GELEE:
- Soak the gelatine leaves in cold water for 5 minutes.
- Warm the tonic water slightly (do not boil – the carbon dioxide is gone, that is intentional).
- Squeeze out the gelatine and dissolve in the warm tonic.
- Add the lemon juice and a pinch of salt.
- Pour into a shallow mold (approx. 5 mm thick).
- Leave to set in the fridge for 2-3 hours.
- Cut the firm jelly into small cubes or lozenges.
DIRECTIONS:
- Rinse the pickled trout fillet under cold water and pat dry.
- Cut into thin slices or slices with a sharp knife (start at an angle).
- Arrange the cucumber slices on the plate – in a fan shape or closely spaced.
- Arrange the trout strips on top.
- Place the tonic jelly cubes between and on top of the fish.
- Garnish with fresh dill.
- Grate a little lemon zest over the top.
- Finish with fleur de sel and a touch of olive oil or dill oil.
SUPPLEMENTS:
- Toasted brown bread or crispbread with crème fraîche
- Cucumber salad with dill and white balsamic vinegar
- Cold-whipped dill butter on toasted baguette
