The German asparagus classic – down-to-earth, festive and irresistible
Wine with food rarely works as harmoniously as with the German asparagus classic par excellence. White asparagus with hollandaise sauce and wafer-thin slices of Black Forest ham is more than just a dish – it is a spring ritual that has been celebrated on German tables for generations. Finding the right wine to accompany this trio of nutty, tender asparagus spears, buttery hollandaise and salty raw ham requires a sure instinct: the sauce is both melting and acidic, the ham brings smoke and salt into play, and the asparagus itself does not want to be drowned out with its delicately bitter notes. Anyone who likes to combine wine and food will find a pairing here that takes spring cuisine to the next level – with a Pinot Blanc from Baden that brings all the components together beautifully.
Ideal wine accompaniment: Pinot Blanc QbA dry (Baden, Germany)
The calcareous shell limestone soils and mild temperatures of the Baden foothills give this wine a unique creamy texture that makes every sip velvety and round. Fine aromas of white peach, green pear and a hint of toasted almond unfold on the palate – all integrated into a clearly structured acidity that is never overpowering. It is precisely this characteristic that makes it the ideal accompaniment for hollandaise sauce: its freshness cuts precisely through the buttery richness of the sauce without tipping the balance. The subtle nuttiness of the wine reflects the slightly nutty base note of the white asparagus, while the mineral character does not overpower the taste of the Black Forest ham, but skilfully frames it. A Pinot Blanc with one to two years of bottle ageing reveals its full depth here – young, lively and full of character at the same time, just as Baden cuisine loves its white wines.
Further wine recommendations for this dish
Silvaner Spätlese dry (Franconia, Germany)
Franconian soil leaves its mark in the glass: the aromas of this wine revolve around yellow plum, quince and an unmistakable earthy spiciness that makes it immediately recognizable as a Silvaner. Its broad, almost oily body effortlessly carries Hollandaise sauce without competing with the buttery richness. The moderate acidity gives the asparagus room to develop, and the long decaying phases of mineral notes – flint, slate, damp earth – interlock elegantly with the smoky aroma of Black Forest ham. Those who choose a Silvaner with two to three years of bottle ageing will be rewarded with a wine that seems to have been made especially for this spring platter. Producers from the Würzburger Stein or the Homburg Kallmuth are particularly recommended.
Grüner Veltliner Federspiel DAC (Wachau, Austria)
The steep primary rock terraces of the Wachau give this wine a vibrant minerality that can be felt in the glass as elegant tension. The characteristic peppery spiciness – the unmistakable trademark of Grüner Veltliner – comes into its own particularly well with asparagus, as it picks up on the delicately bitter asparagus edge and turns it into something positive. On the palate, aromas of citrus peel, white peach and green bell pepper complement the Hollandaise with lively freshness. The Federspiel level is the right choice for this combination: light body, elegant freshness, no alcohol to overpower the sauce. A young vintage brings the necessary effervescence that suits this spring dish so well.
Riesling Kabinett dry (Mosel, Germany)
The slate soils of the Middle Moselle give rise to a Riesling that delights with its playful lightness and fine acidity. Its aromas – lime, apricot, white peach, a hint of petroleum when slightly ripe – add an aromatic dimension to the meal without dominating the asparagus. It is the lively acidity of the Mosel Riesling in particular that really wakes up the Hollandaise sauce: it breaks up the butteriness of the emulsion and makes every bite fresh again. The finely tart ageing – with minimal residual sugar – also creates an elegant sweetness-acidity balance that corresponds wonderfully with the slight bitter note of the asparagus. Serve well chilled at around eight degrees.
Sauvignon Blanc AOC Pouilly-Fumé (Loire, France)
Flintstone meets spring: the unmistakable smoky note of this Sauvignon Blanc from the Loire corresponds with the Black Forest ham in a surprisingly harmonious way. The pronounced aromas of grapefruit, freshly cut meadow and gooseberry bring vibrancy to this trio of asparagus and ham, which is restrained in itself. Anyone who fears that this wine might be too dominant: The vinification in Pouilly-Fumé tames the grassiness and instead emphasizes the minerality, so that the combination with Hollandaise works without tipping over into acid shocks. Wine lovers who usually only go for German grape varieties when it comes to asparagus should take this trip to the Loire – it will surprise them.
Pinot Blanc quality wine dry (Palatinate, Germany)
The warm Palatinate gives the Pinot Blanc more body than its Baden counterpart, yet it always remains fresh and lively. Aromas of ripe pears, mirabelle plums and a delicate hint of caramel emerge from the fertile loess soils between Haardt and the Rhine plain. This smoothness makes it an excellent choice for rich sauces: Hollandaise is not fought against, but harmoniously embraced. At the same time, the Palatinate Pinot Blanc has enough substance to stand up to the strong smoke of Black Forest ham – a wine that shows strength without showing off. For estate wines aged in wooden barrels, a vintage with two to three years of bottle ageing is recommended.
Crémant d’Alsace AOC Brut (Alsace, France)
If you celebrate asparagus as a festive start to the season, this Alsatian sparkling wine is highly recommended. The fine perlage washes the palate clean between two bites, the cool acidity of the Pinot Blanc base harmonizes with the Hollandaise without overpowering it. On the palate, aromas of brioche, green apple and a hint of yeast lend this asparagus classic a festive lightness. As an aperitif or for a long Sunday lunch at the table, this crémant is the elegant alternative to still wine – it combines a festive mood with genuine food compatibility.
You can find all other ideas for wine with food in the asparagus season in the Asparagus & Wine category.
The recipe:
White asparagus with hollandaise sauce and Black Forest ham
Cooking utensils
- 1 Large pot (at least 5 l) with asparagus grid or asparagus stove
- 1 Stainless steel mixing bowl for the bain-marie
- 1 Small pot for the water bath
- 1 Whisk
- 1 Sharp asparagus peeling knife
- 1 Skimmer
- 1 Lemon squeezer
- 1 Preheated plates (oval or round, at least 28 cm)
Ingredients
For the asparagus:
- 1 kg white asparagus fresh, firm sticks
- 1 teaspoon salt
- 1 tsp sugar
- 1 Tbsp butter
- Juice of ½ lemon
For the hollandaise sauce:
- 3 Egg yolk Size M
- 150 g clarified butter
- 2 Tbsp white wine dry
- 1 EL Water
- Juice of ½ lemon
- Salt white pepper, 1 pinch of cayenne pepper
To serve:
- 80 g Black Forest ham sliced wafer-thin, 4-6 slices per person
- Fresh chervil or chives optional
Preparation
PREPARATION:
- Wash and completely peel the asparagus – from the head downwards, especially the lower third.
- Cut off the woody ends by approx. 2 cm.
- Sort the sticks by thickness.
- Bring the water to the boil in an asparagus stove or large pan.
- Place the egg yolks and white wine in the mixing bowl.
- Melt the butter and set aside.
COOKING STEPS:
- Season the salted water with salt, sugar, butter and lemon juice.
- Pickle the asparagus – thick spears first.
- Cook over a medium heat for 10-14 minutes; the sticks should remain firm to the bite.
- Whisk the egg yolks with the white wine and water in a bain-marie until creamy and the mixture becomes more voluminous.
- Add the clarified butter in a thin stream and continue to beat constantly.
- Season to taste with lemon juice, salt, white pepper and cayenne pepper.
- Keep the sauce warm (water bath at a very low temperature), do not allow to boil.
- Allow the ham slices to come to room temperature.
DIRECTIONS:
- Prepare preheated plates.
- Remove the asparagus with a slotted spoon and drain well.
- Place the sticks diagonally on the plate (5-6 sticks per person).
- Spoon the hollandaise sauce generously over the top half of the asparagus.
- Loosely drape the Black Forest ham – free, airy folds look more elegant.
- Optionally garnish with fresh chervil or chives.
SUPPLEMENTS:
- New potatoes
- Leaf salad
- Boiled egg
