Tuscany on a plate – when stale bread becomes the starring role
Panzanella is one of the most honest dishes in Tuscan cuisine: soaked bread, fully ripe tomatoes, onions, basil – and in the version con acciughe e capperi, with anchovies and capers, a composition that extends far beyond the summer salad plate. Wine with food is dedicated to this classic bread salad tradition from Tuscany and shows which wine accompaniment best does justice to the combination of salty-tart depth, tomato sweetness and herbal spice. The anchovies bring umami and saltiness to the salad, while the capers add an acidic, mineral note that gives the whole dish a sharper edge. The soaked pane toscano – that salt-free, dense Tuscan bread – soaks up the olive oil and tomato juice and becomes an aromatic base. Wine and food are best combined when the accompaniment picks up on the salty depth of the anchovies and at the same time does not suppress the freshness of the tomatoes. A dish for hot lunches, long evenings and outdoor tables.
Ideal wine accompaniment: Vermentino di Gallura DOCG (Sardinia, Italy)
The granite and slate soils of Gallura in northern Sardinia give this white wine an unmistakable combination of salty, mineral precision and tropical fruit sweetness, making it one of the most exciting white wines in the Mediterranean. On the palate, aromas of white peach, citrus mandarin, fresh rosemary and a characteristic hint of sea salt and yellow broom unfold – an aromatic signature that immediately smells of Sardinia. The acidity is lively and precise without being aggressive; it gives the wine tension and allows it to glide over the abundant olive oil of the Panzanella without being weighed down by it. The salty minerality of the Vermentino di Gallura DOCG enters into a fascinating dialog with the pickled anchovies and capers: salt responds to salt, mineral to mineral, giving the dish a Mediterranean coherence that can be felt rather than explained. On the finish, there is a bitter hint of herbs – typical of Sardinia, typical of Vermentino – which picks up and prolongs the basil of the salad. A wine like a summer breeze from the Mediterranean.
Further wine recommendations for this dish
Vernaccia di San Gimignano DOCG (Tuscany, Italy)
The chalky soils around San Gimignano produce a white wine with a characteristic bitterness and ethereal freshness in Vernaccia, which is virtually predestined for Tuscan cuisine. Aromas of green apple, lemon, almond and a hint of dried herbs combine with a lively, almost citric acidity that cuts cleanly through the Panzanella olive oil. The typical bitter almond note in the finish corresponds elegantly with the salty capers and lends the entire pairing an almost natural Tuscan coherence. Tuscany is best enjoyed with Vernaccia – and this DOCG shows why.
Soave Classico DOC (Veneto, Italy)
The volcanic basalt soils of the Soave Classico core give the Garganega grape a creamy texture and a floral depth that accompanies the bread salad in a surprisingly elegant way. Ripe pear, white flowers, almond and a hint of chamomile build up a soft, inviting aroma that gently coats the umami of the anchovies without masking it. The subtle acidity and slightly nutty texture of this wine are a natural match for the soaked bread component of the panzanella. A Soave Classico DOC from a reliable producer shows that Venetian white wines certainly know how to accompany southern Italian fire.
Picpoul de Pinet AOC (Languedoc, France)
The salt marshes and mussel reefs near the Étang de Thau shape Picpoul de Pinet into one of the saltiest, leanest and most direct white wines in France. Its name – “sting of the lip” – already hints at the pronounced acidity that makes this wine the ideal counterpart to salty, oily dishes. Citrus fruit, green apple, a hint of sea salt and cool minerality: this is the aroma profile of Panzanella con acciughe, which picks up on the anchovies, confirms the spiciness of the capers and neatly frames the olive oil. A wine for anyone who likes their salad with acidity and salt air.
Assyrtiko DO Santorini (Aegean, Greece)
The volcanic ash and pumice of the Santorini caldera condense in Assyrtiko to create a white wine of exceptional mineral density and tension. Intense citrus aromas – lime, lemon zest, bitter orange – meet a volcanic minerality reminiscent of stone and salt lake, and an acidity that defies any rich topping. For a panzanella with anchovies, this is an exciting encounter: the power of the Assyrtiko is on a par with the salty umami of the anchovies, and the citrus note of the wine brightens up the whole dish like a squeeze of lemon on the plate. A Greek white wine with absolute Mediterranean character.
Vermentino DOC Toscana (Tuscany, Italy)
Less well-known than its Sardinian brother, but full of character and independent: The Vermentino from the Tuscan Maremma, on the Tyrrhenian coast, brings similar aromas to the Gallura Vermentino, but with more warmth, a little more body and a stronger herbal spiciness. Aromas of peach, apricot, rosemary, dried herbs and a subtle sea salt minerality combine to create a white wine that stands between Tuscany and the coast – and could hardly be better suited to a Tuscan Panzanella. The herbal spice of the wine picks up the basil of the salad and extends its aroma. An underrated home player.
Discover more summer wine and food pairings in our summer and wine category.
The recipe:
Tuscan panzanella with anchovies and capers
Cooking utensils
- 1 Large salad bowl
- 1 Small chopping board and sharp knife
- 1 Small pot or bowl for soaking the bread
- 1 Kitchen scales
- 1 Salad servers or large spoons for tossing
- 1 Deep serving platter or shallow salad bowl
Ingredients
FOR THE PANZANELLA:
- 200 g Stale pane toscano or salt-free white bread from the day before, cut into large cubes
- 4 Large, fully ripe tomatoes approx. 500 g, cut into cubes
- 1 small red onion sliced into very fine rings
- 1 Cucumber peeled, cored, cut into cubes
- 1 red pointed bell pepper cut into fine strips
- 1 large handful of fresh basil roughly plucked
FOR THE ANCHOVIES AND CAPERS:
- 8 Anchovy fillets in oil inlaid quality
- 2 Tbsp capers pickled in salt, rinsed, coarsely chopped
- 1 EL Caper water from the jar for the dressing
FOR THE DRESSING:
- 5 Tbsp extra virgin olive oil best quality
- 2 Tbsp red wine vinegar
- 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
- 1 small clove of garlic finely grated
- Salt restrained, anchovies and capers are salty and black pepper
Preparation
PREPARATION:
- Place the bread cubes in a wide bowl.
- Drizzle over 2 tablespoons of olive oil and 1 tablespoon of red wine vinegar and mix with your hands.
- Leave to stand at room temperature for 30 minutes until the bread is soft but still slightly firm to the bite.
- In the meantime, dice the tomatoes and collect the juice.
- Slice the onions into very fine rings.
COOKING STEPS:
- Mix the dressing: Mix the olive oil, red wine vinegar, mustard, garlic, caper water, salt and pepper into an emulsion.
- Mix the tomatoes, cucumber, onions and peppers in a large bowl.
- Add the soaked bread cubes and gently fold in.
- Pour over the dressing and turn everything carefully.
- Leave to infuse for 10 minutes so that the flavors combine.
- Stir in the chopped capers.
DIRECTIONS:
- Arrange the panzanella on a deep serving dish.
- Arrange the anchovy fillets decoratively on top.
- Pluck the fresh basil generously over the salad.
- Finish with a final thread of olive oil.
- Serve immediately – the panzanella should not stand for too long.
SUPPLEMENTS:
- Toasted ciabatta with olive oil
- Antipasti platter with olives and pecorino
- Grilled tuna or fried seafood
