Venetian pasta tradition with a maritime flavor
Choosing the right wine to go with the food is crucial to the success of bigoli in salsa, as wine and food form a salty alliance here. This dish is a classic of Venetian cuisine and impresses with its radical simplicity. At its core, it consists only of thick wholemeal spaghetti, a considerable amount of slowly braised white onions and high-quality anchovies, which melt into a creamy sauce in the heat of the pan. Originally a Lenten dish for Ash Wednesday or Good Friday, it is now appreciated all year round for its intense umami flavor. The onions bring a natural sweetness that is the perfect counterpart to the salty sea breeze of the anchovies. Bigoli in salsa is an honest, hearty dish that needs no distraction and challenges the palate with a deep, earthy spice. It impressively demonstrates how just three basic ingredients can be used to create a culinary masterpiece that brings the soul of Venice to the plate and invites you to enjoy it together.
Ideal wine accompaniment: Pinot Grigio delle Venezie DOC (Veneto, Italy)
The Pinot Grigio delle Venezie DOC is the classic choice of wine to accompany this dish, as it perfectly complements the rustic elegance of the pasta. This wine from northern Italy is characterized by its fine acidity and subtle fruity aromas, which are particularly reminiscent of green apple and pear. It has a pleasant freshness on the palate, which lightens up the salty profile of the anchovies wonderfully and takes the heaviness out of the dish. As the sauce has a certain richness due to the onions and olive oil, the Pinot Grigio with its slender body and clear structure acts as an invigorating element. Its mineral notes pick up on the iodine notes of the fish without dominating them. The wine also offers a harmonious balance to the onion sweetness, resulting in a round and very satisfying mouthfeel. It is an uncomplicated but precise companion that supports traditional Venetian cuisine in its purest form and focuses entirely on the aromatic depth of the pasta.
Further wine recommendations for this dish
Soave Classico DOC (Veneto, Italy)
A Soave Classico is a wonderful alternative that brings its very own texture to the game thanks to the Garganega grape. This wine often offers a delicate almond note and floral accents of elderflower, which harmonize perfectly with the stewed onions. The volcanic soils of the region give the wine a salty minerality that echoes the anchovy sauce. It is supple on the palate and has a moderate acidity, making it a very supple partner for the thick bigoli. Thanks to its elegance and medium body, it can stand up to the intense spiciness of the dish without losing any of its freshness. It lends the rustic pasta an almost aristocratic note and ensures a very long, harmonious finish that brings together the sweet and salty nuances of the dish wonderfully and prolongs the moment of enjoyment in a fine way.
Grüner Veltliner Kamptal DAC (Lower Austria, Austria)
A Grüner Veltliner from the Kamptal brings the famous pepperiness that forms an exciting alliance with the black peppercorns in the pasta. The lively acidity and cool minerality of this Austrian classic are extremely refreshing against the oily film of the anchovy sauce. On the nose, there are notes of herbs and pome fruit that add an additional aromatic layer to the dish. This wine is structured strongly enough to balance the intense umami presence of the anchovies while supporting the onion sweetness. On the palate, it is precise and straightforward, providing a delightful contrast to the soft texture of the pasta. The combination of Alpine freshness and Mediterranean spice is surprisingly harmonious and shows how well a white wine with a strong character from the north goes with the powerful flavors of the south, balancing the maritime intensity with a clear, fruity structure.
Bandol AOC Rosé (Provence, France)
A powerful rosé from Bandol is an excellent choice for anyone looking for a more structured accompaniment. Due to the high proportion of Mourvèdre, this wine has an almost spicy depth and a powerful body that goes perfectly with the dark notes of anchovies. The aromas of ripe strawberries, spices and a hint of undergrowth complement the complex aromas of the slowly braised onions. This rosé is not a light summer wine, but a serious food companion that impresses with its fine tannin structure and mineral vein. It brings a certain warmth to the combination that goes very well with the rustic character of the wholemeal Bigoli. The balance between fruit, spice and acidity in the wine ensures that the pasta gains in complexity, while at the same time the wine provides a pleasant cleansing of the palate. A sophisticated pairing that shows that rosé can be much more than just a terrace wine.
Assyrtiko Santorini PDO (Aegean, Greece)
Assyrtiko from the island of Santorini is known for its irrepressible power and extreme mineral character. This Greek grape variety produces wines with a razor-sharp acidity and an almost salty texture, making it a natural partner for salty fish dishes. As bigoli in salsa is very flavorful, it needs a wine that doesn’t go under, and Assyrtiko holds its own effortlessly. Its smoky nuances and intense citrus aromas enliven the dish and give it an enormous freshness kick. The volcanic origin of the wine perfectly matches the archaic character of the pasta and underlines the maritime origin of the anchovies. On the palate, the combination is very energetic and long-lasting, with the acidity of the wine cutting through the olive oil perfectly. For lovers of strong and uncompromising flavors, this Mediterranean wine is a revelation that combines the simplicity of pasta with the wild nature of the Aegean.
Chenin Blanc WO Coastal Region (Coastal Region, South Africa)
A Chenin Blanc from the South African coastal region often offers a fascinating combination of smoothness and freshness that harmonizes wonderfully with the texture of the bigoli. The grape variety brings aromas of quince, honeydew melon and often a fine nuttiness that picks up on the roasted aromas of onions and wholemeal pasta. If the wine has undergone discreet ageing in wood, the fine vanilla notes support the sweetness of the onion paste without disturbing the fish. The present acidity ensures that the pairing never seems heavy despite the richness of the dish. South Africa proves its ability to produce wines with enormous depth and culinary value. The Chenin Blanc caresses the anchovy sauce and provides a full-bodied experience that impresses with its complexity. It bridges the gap between rustic Italian tradition and modern New World winemaking, resulting in a very contemporary and exciting moment of pleasure.
The recipe:

Bigoli in salsa (pasta with anchovy and onion sauce)
Cooking utensils
- 1 Large pasta pot
- 1 Knife
- 1 Cutting board
- 1 Pasta strainer
Ingredients
For the pasta
- 200 g Bigoli alternatively thick wholemeal spaghetti
- Salt for the pasta water
For the salsa
- 3 large white onions
- 80 g Anchovy fillets in oil
- 4 Tbsp extra virgin olive oil
- Black pepper from the grinder
- A small bunch of fresh parsley
Preparation
Preparing the onions
- Peel and halve the onions and cut into very fine strips.
- Heat the olive oil in the pan over a low heat and add the onion strips.
- Sauté the onions gently for about 20 minutes until they are soft and translucent. They must not turn brown. If necessary, add a spoonful of water.
Finish the sauce
- Drain the anchovy fillets, roughly chop and add to the soft onions in the pan.
- Stir with a wooden spatula until the anchovies have completely melted and combined with the onions to form a creamy sauce.
- Season generously with freshly ground black pepper. Salt is not usually necessary, as the anchovies have enough saltiness.
Cooking and mixing pasta
- Cook the bigoli in plenty of salted water according to the instructions on the packet until al dente.
- Drain the pasta, reserving some of the cooking water.
- Add the pasta directly to the onion and anchovy salsa in the pan. Add a dash of pasta water and toss everything well over a medium heat until the sauce coats the bigoli perfectly.
- Sprinkle with finely chopped parsley and serve immediately.
Recommended side dishes
- A simple rocket salad with lemon vinaigrette.
- Topped with roasted pine nuts.
- Drizzle a few drops of high-quality olive oil over the finished dish.

